This travel post is an extra special one because it’s about a city that I didn’t just visit, but am living in!
My family and I moved abroad to the lovely city of Copenhagen, Denmark in April 2023, and we have been loving the adventures here. Don’t be fooled by our dog’s serious face in the above photo, she’s loving it, too.
Although I am not an expert on CPH nor have I been to most of the hot spots (hello, life on a tight budget with a toddler and a dog), but I have had some amazing eats and memories here that I would love to share.
Where to stay
There is so much to see and do in CPH, but it all depends on what you like. If you love the water and city hustle and bustle, then you may want to stay near Nyhavn or Christianshavn.
If you’re into more historic, established areas, then check out Fredericksburg. Norrebro and Vesterbro are super hip and still close to most things, too.
Museums/Castles
Ny Carlsberg Glyptoteket (pictured above)- My absolute favorite museum in Copenhagen is the Glyptoteket. I love it so much, I got an annual pass and go back every month or so for a great bite to eat and to get inspired. This place is like a small Louvre for CPH. It’s got everything from ancient Roman stuff to impressionists, and they usually have great rotating art, too (Sorolla currently). And their cafe is one of my favorite breakfast or lunch spots to grab a famous Danish bun and cheese (or BMO: boller med ost), scone, sweet bite or fabulous sandwich or salad.
Designmuseum– If you’re into the arts and learning more about Denmark’s creative, design-based past and future, then this is a must-stop. You’ll see the infamous Danish-designed chair collection and lots more for good interactive brain candy. Then, you can grab a coffee or treat in the garden on the way out.
Ordrupgaard– If you’re looking for a trip to an off-the-beaten-path museum, then scope out some Danish and other European art in a modern setting at Ordrupgaard.
Rosenborg Castle– This is a fun castle right in the city to poke around in. Enjoy the gems room and lots of cool swords and armory, as well. You can also walk through the gardens outside.
Frederiksborg Castle– If you can get out of the city for a little bit, the grandeur of this castle may be right up your alley. There’s so much to explore here, so you definitely need a half day here at least.
Royal Theater– There is an old theater, new theater and opera house in Copenhagen. And while I’ve only toured the old theater, it was so neat to see inside and learn more about the history of theater in Denmark (and see where the royals sit). You may be lucky enough to even grab a ticket to a ballet or other show here.
Parks, Gardens & Nature
Frederiksberg Gardens– This sprawling park is lush with greenery, water features and trees and makes for a very peaceful walk or picnic spot.
Botanical Garden– Get a ticket to the indoor Palm House to see some amazing tropical plants or just explore the free park and plant spaces outdoors.
Zoo– We really love the CPH Zoo for its kid-friendly atmosphere and impeccable park snacks.
Kastellat fort (pictured above)- If you can survive the wind, you’re sure to enjoy the elevated walk around this old, star-shaped fort, with beautiful views of the city and the water.
Nyhavn Netto boat tour– You’ve got to see this famous harbor and with this 1-hour, $8 boat tour, you’ll really get a feel for the city center.
Where to Eat
Bakeries
- Lagekagehuset– This local chain is my absolute favorite Danish bakery. There’s so much to sample and try, though may I suggest a direktorsnegl, spandaeur or rabarberhorn pastry, a flodeboller, and/or a bolle med ost (bun and cheese)?
- Hart Bageri– Grab a creative pastry or sourdough loaf and coffee at this famed local bakery.
- Juno the bakery(pictured above)- You can’t go wrong with the sweet and savory selections here and the famous cardamom bun.
- Andersen Bakery– This is another great spot for Danish baked goods (with a Japanese touch).
- Leckerbaer– If you’re a fan of French tarts, then you’ll love sampling the fruit-forward flavors at this sweet spot.
Lunch
- Danish hot dog at Kongen’s Nytorv– I’m going to start with probably the cheapest (and very tasty) lunch in Copenhagen: a hot dog topped with mayo, ketchup, crispy onions and pickles for about $5 from a cart in this square.
- Told & Snaps– Get ready for a very Danish lunch here, complete with fancy open-faced sandwiches (smørrebrød) and lots of flavors of snaps to enjoy with them. Be brave and go for the classic herring or curry herring sandwich!
- Torvehallerne food hall– We love taking guests here because of the variety and diversity of restaurants, bottle and local shops. You can pretty much find whatever you’re looking for (Mexican, Danish, Italian, French) from one of the dozens of vendors.
- Banegaarden– If you want to feel like you’re stepping into a garden and out of the city, then check out this spot (an old railroad station) for tasty bites from several local stands and restaurants.
- Warpigs– You can take the girl out of the South… and that’s why this BBQ spot is making my list. They’ve got some great sandwiches (pulled pork and vegan nachos are my faves), meats and beers on the menu.
Fancy Dinner
- OMAR– The 8-course menu here is sure to blow your mind with interesting and comforting tastes, and it’s under $60/person, which is a real steal for CPH.
- Zahida– Get ready for an inspiring flavor adventure at Zahida, where there Indian/Pakistani dishes sing with spice and balance.
- Host– I had a wonderful multi-course birthday dinner here and just loved the foraged Scandinavian touches. The mushroom thyme soup that we drank through straws was so cool!
- Superbello (pictured above)- This is our favorite local dinner spot, and you can’t go wrong with their Italian dishes and drinks. Try the calamari to start!
Drinks
- Library Bar– A historic old bar with fun plays on classic drinks in a cozy setting.
- Mikkeller & Friends– One of our favorite spots to grab a beer (so many kinds on tap) and sit for a bit. It’s also across the street from a huge park, if you’ve got kiddos to entertain.
- Aperto (pictured above)- This is my favorite local wine bar and specializes in Italian wine and eats.
Where to shop
Magasin– If you’re in Nyhavn, you must stop at my favorite Danish department store: Magasin. Snoop around the 5+ floors to window shop or buy Danish furniture, lighting, kitchenware, clothing (and stuff from lots of other international brands, too). They have a nice food hall on the top floor, as well as food vendors and a loose-leaf tea shop on the bottom floor.
ARKET– I stumbled into this modern store one day and was so happy I did. I really love the basic Danish style of their clothing and housewares.
Royal Copenhagen (flagship store or outlet)– If you’re in the city center, check out this beautiful Danish porcelain shop. And if you want a deal on some tableware, hop over the outlet store.