Fruitful Travels: Chenonceaux

Have you ever been to a new city or place where you just kept thinking you are in a wonderful dream? Like the views, food and atmosphere are all just too good to even be true?

There are just some places on the planet where you feel so relaxed and at peace, from the moment you arrive until the moment you leave.

Chenonceaux in the Loire Valley of France is just like that for me and my husband.

It’s a short two-train trip from Paris to get there, and it feels like you’ve been transported into a dreamland in this little town in the Loire Valley.

The vineyards and wine, the cheese, the ivy and the peace and quiet. It’s all amazing!

But, let me rewind a bit to tell you how we ended up finding this French gem. Jason’s Grandmere (French grandmother) told us that she and her family used to visit Chenonceaux and the castle there when she was little, and that it was one of her favorite castles in France.

Not only is this town magical with a perfect castle to match, it also has an incredible hotel (one of our favorites) with a 1 Michelin star restaurant. Amazing!

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel Auberge bon Labourer

The hotel is luxurious but quaint all in one. It’s only a few-minute walk from the train stop and it even has a lovely pool and jacuzzi tub!

We keep going back to the same room that is spacious (hello, separate shower and tub, which never happens in Europe!), modern and opens to a serene garden. It is truly one of my favorite places to relax and recharge on the planet…and we haven’t even gotten to the food yet.

There are also beautiful, fantastical gardens everywhere you turn with cute benches or chairs for you to read, journal or just sit and chat. The prices aren’t bad either, and the service is wonderful.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

Auberge bon Labourer Restaurant

The meals my husband and I have shared at this spot have also been some of our absolute favorite.

The food is fresh, lively, colorful, comforting and absolutely delcious. Whether you’re eating smoked salmon (salmon fumee) at the bar or dining in the restaurant at lunch or dinner, you will not leave hungry.

From the fresh scallop ceviche with lime zest to jack dory fish with white beans and foam to a blood orange-themed dessert plate that looks like a butterfly, everything we have eaten at this Michelin-star restaurant has been delicious and inspired.

They always offer an amouse-bouche and thre is even a dessert cart at the end of the meal!

They also have an amazing wine list (and resident sommelier) to help you explore the Loire offerings and beyond, and the staff is very attentive but warm.

This restaurant is a must-visit if you’re in the area. You will not regret it. French fine dining at its finest!

Boulangerie la Maison Des Pages

This is the only bakery in Chenonceaux (although we did find a good one a 15- to 20-minute-walk away), and everything we tasted from here was exceptional. From pain au chocolat for breakfast to jambon et fromage (ham and cheese) sandwiches for lunch, you can’t beat the selection.

You can also buy local wines for a really nice price ($10-12 for most) at this shop and the other one in town.

Au Gateau Breton

We did a more relaxed lunch at this local spot (literally a minute walk from our hotel room), and I was impressed. They focus on French homecooking, and the portions are really nice, especially for the prices.

I enjoyed some Loire rose, then salmon then a fabulous apple tarte tatin with caramel ice cream. I would definitely recommend hitting up this restaurant when you want something a little cheaper and less fancy than the high-level fine dining.

L’Orangerie at Chateau Cheonceau

Not only is the chateau/castle in Cheonceaux a masterpiece (see below), but the restaurant within it is also stellar. You can do a fabulous several-course lunch and they have a tea time, too.

Our lunch was incredible from the starters to the mains to dessert and the cheese plate! You get to pick from dozens of local and other cheeses that are all interesting and tasty. The French onion soup was the best I’ve ever had!

Les Caves du Pere Auguste Vineyard

The special finds just keep coming when you spend some time in Chenonceaux. Case in point: this 5-generation vineyard that you can just walk up to, sample some amazing wines for like $5 and then take some home with you, too!

Oh and they will let you take a quick self-tour of the old bottles in the caves, too. On top of that, you can walk through their vineyards to get back to the center of Chenonceaux.

We loved the wines so much that we took home their sparkling white and rose (and drank one while we were in the town, too). I hope we can return when the grapes are growing someday, or maybe even help harvest them?!

WHAT WE SAW

Chateau de Chenonceau

This is a must-go if you’re in the area…if you’re not in fact just there to see the castle. It is definitely worth the trip. The beauty, the history, the architecture, the River Cher. Wow!

It is all mind-blowing to behold.

Have I mentioned that Chenonceaux is super close to lots of beautiful Loire valley towns, which means it’s a great stop and a great homebase if you’re exploring the Loire.

I haven’t seen any other castles in the Loire Valley, but I was very impressed with this former home of Catherine de Medici and Diane de Poitiers (at different times).

The gardens are expansive and beautiful (there are like 3 of them), and the tour takes you through almost the entire castle. The grounds also had plenty of forests and a small hedge maze!

From beautiful halls to ornate bedchambers to a tiny chapel, there is so much to explore. Oh, and the several large rooms in the kitchen are fun for food lovers, too!

Poterie Agny

This cute, little pottery shop is a must-stop when in Chenonceaux. I always leave with a few special pieces that are both simple and beautiful. From bowls to jewelry to vases, there is a lot to choose from.